13,000 feet up on the John Muir Trail: Two Different Perspectives

Below are the separate accounts by Katie and myself on our 12 day journey northbound on the John Muir Trail in the California Sierras. During the course of the 12 days we covered 110 miles, crossed 10 mountains, hitchhiked, took greyhound busses, didn't shower, lost our gear and got altitude sickness.

Day 1

7/6/2019

Katie

Angela and I woke up at 3:30am after only getting two hours of sleep. We dropped off my car at my mom's and Ubered to Santa Fe depot in downtown San Diego. We took our first train to union station (which we almost missed by three minutes), and a second train to Lancaster. These journey's were pretty uneventful. I slept on the train. We sat on the upper deck and Angela drew in her notebook as we bulleted along the coast. At Lancaster we had to wait until 2pm to take a supposed bus to Lone Pine/Whitney Portal. The bus didn't come. It turned out that it only runs during the weekdays which we did not know and which wasn't clear online. We finally decided to Lyft up to Lone Pine so that we could still make it with enough daylight to hike to Whitney Portal, the other option was we could have gotten a ride from someone in the PCT community from Facebook. 2.5 hours and almost 200 dollars later we arrived in Lone Pine only to find out the visitor's center was closed where we would need to get day hiking permits for Mt. Whitney so that we could make our way over the mountain pass and onto the PCT. We were informed these passes were only available on a lottery system and we were not likely to get passes by walking in in the morning. At this point, our only option was to salvage a piece of cardboard from a trash bin and write "Horseshoe Meadows" on it so we could hitchhike to a more viable trailhead for the PCT.

The first guy that picked us up right away was giving me a really creepy vibe. He was high as a kite, and he made a comment that he would take us both home. I sat behind him with my taser in my hand in case he tried to pull anything. We got out right away and were almost instantly picked up by three actresses from LA (probably/possibly gay) who informed us they always wanted to pick up hitchhikers and called us cute. They were staying at a ranch, but drove us 13 miles out of their way to Horseshoe Meadows where we set up camp.

Angela

Yesterday, Katie and I left for the John Muir Trail in the middle of the night and caught an Amtrack train to LA. This was my first time riding a train in America (other than the subway in New York). Public transport in this country is sporadic and a bit rough around the edges but we made it to Union Station and then we carried on a different train to Lancaster. We were disappointed to not be able to get a bus to Lone Pine that same day and after waiting around in a Creperie in Lancaster for hours, in the baking heat of that dusty desert town we finally made the decision to get a Lyft which cost a small fortune.

We were picked up by a kindly older man who used to enjoy climbing on dessert rocks until he hurt his back and now he drives for Lyft. He had to stop to get a cold iced tea for the roundtrip four hour drive he would have to make to take us to Lone Pine, but we were very grateful and enjoyed his stories. Lone Pine is a series of outdoor supply stores and restaurants along a narrow strip of desert road with dramatic mountain views of Mt. Whitney towering overhead. We filled up our packs with water in McDonald's and were approached by curious people in the town when they saw our heavy packs about what we were doing. We eventually stood on the street corner of Whitney Portal road with a makeshift sign asking for a ride to Horseshoe Meadows where we determined we would be able to enter the PCT. I was a bit worried out our PCT permits not being good enough for the section hike that we were going to attempt, since it was impossible to get a JMT permit. It felt a little sneaky to be entering the forest from Horseshoe Meadows. But how bad is it just to want to hike?

We got picked up almost immediately by a creepy guy in a beat up red car who had unfocused eyes and asked me the same questions several times. He didn't seem to understand that we were hiking. He asked us what we were doing later. And then suggested he take us home with him. At that we asked to be dropped off and made a quick exit of his car. Then three LA actresses picked us up who were nice and beautiful. They gave us a ride all the way to the meadows, which was up a huge mountain road we would have had to road walk up.

At Horseshoe Meadows we set up camp and oriented ourselves with where we would find the PCT junction the next morning to head out of Cottonwood Pass to begin the trail.

Day 2

7/7/19

Katie

We woke up in Horseshoe Meadows and started our hike on Cottonwood Pass shortly after we made it to the PCT (about 6 miles). We hiked through Inyo National Forest to Sequoia and then the King's Canyon Wilderness. Our total hike was about 12 miles, but the elevation gain was difficult. A highlight was we met a guy named Jim who we saw all throughout the day. Angela knocked over our pasta, but we still ate it. We picked every piece off the ground and rubbed off the dirt. I showered in a creek for the first time. We also saw a park ranger that scared us and said Kearsarge Pass is covered in snow so it made me a little worried because we do not have crampons. I hope everything works out.

Angela

There was a hard 3.5 mile incline straight up a mountain and then we walked 8.5 miles further along the PCT. We could see beautiful snow capped mountains all along the way. The sweeping views along valleys and lakes were inspiring. At lunch under some sheltering pines I knocked over our cooked pasta on the ground which we then picked up piece by piece and wiped all the grime off. The pasta crunched in our mouths over small rocks, dirt and pine needles. I think it may have ruined my taste for pasta pesto altogether. Our current ready made trail names our Roadrunner and Shortcut. I shortened mine to "Roadie" for short.

Day 3

7/8/19

Katie

We started just south of Rock Creek and made our way through crabtree meadow and on to the JMT! I have been looking forward to hitting the actual JMT trail, though we got stopped by a ranger that gave us a written warning for "illegally starting the JMT" without the correct permit. He said it wasn't fair to all of those who applied for the JMT and couldn't get the permit. Though he didn't give us a citation, he said he did as much for other people who were doing the PCT the way we were going about it. He allowed us to continue but I worry about what future rangers will think of our written warning. It crossed my mind that we could print new permits in Independence, where our first resupply box is. And we also need to buy crampons as I am nervous about the mountain passes.

We continued on through four river crossings, each one got more difficult. Today all we ate was two granola bars, trail mix, and some ramen. We saw many more people today on the JMT but most of them were preparing to summit Mt. Whitney, which we decided to skip. I think the lack of food is making us grumpy but I am worried about running out. We set up camp near Bighorn Plateau, and tomorrow we will hit Forester Pass which has a lot snow on the south side from what we've heard. Today we went another 12 miles.

Angela

The inevitable happened and a ranger stopped us and looked at our permits and was unhappy with our section hiking of the PCT. He said we would need to have started at Kennedy Meadows and done the whole desert and not just the JMT part. I lied and said we were planning to go as far as Lake Tahoe. I also told him that we had spent thousands of dollars on gear and preparation in order to be doing the trail, which was only a slight stretch. It's awful to be reprimanded for wanting to hike. If we had done the AT instead this wouldn't have been even a slight issue since on the east coast they aren't as uptight about permits. One positive thing is that the ranger, who eventually determined that we "meant well" and allowed us to continue onwards said we would be able to hike Mt. Whitney with our PCT permits, even though we didn't think we would be able to. We have decided not to summit Whitney, nonetheless, since we don't have crampons yet. I am getting nervous about the amount of snow that is apparently ahead of us. This year was a heavy snow year as a big storm in May caked on the snow across the Sierras. There have been reports of accidents and people falling off the passes.

I enjoyed the winding trail through moor-like landscapes and over Guyot pass which was a breeze. The next pass allegedly has a lot of snow. Katie and I have different hiking styles. She is a lot faster than I am but I also like to take many breaks and enjoy the scenery. I can tell that Katie is anxious to keep moving.

Day 4

7/9/19

Katie

Today was the toughest day yet. There was very little shade all day. At Bighorn Plateau, I fell but caught myself while crossing a raging river. I went down to my waist and got pretty wet. It was freezing. This was our most dangerous crossing so far. I almost slipped at the first place we attempted to cross but dreaded to head further off the trail. Finally, after we intuitively walked upstream to find a better crossing, we were able to make it across. I can tell Angela doesn't like the river crossings at all. But the only other option is to go back the way we came, which at this point is not something either of us wants to do. Once we made it across the river we had to trudge through snow in our shorts with slopping wet shoes and socks. Many times we couldn't see the trail and followed boot tracks which invariably led us in the wrong direction. There was a lot of falling and reversing the way we came. This slowed us down and meant that it took us a lot longer to wind our way up towards Forester Pass. I wanted to cross this evening but it was already 6pm by the time we got up to the base of the pass and Angela asked if we could stop and camp. I was at first really upset by this because I thought we should go over the pass today. Angela doesn't think we will make it before dark. She's probably right. Also, we aren't totally sure where the trail is and there are only various boot tracks leading in unlikely directions. I was about to insist we keep going when I found a little dirt island surrounded by snow that had a purpose-built circle of stones erected for a space to put your tent. We set up camp here and I am worried it will be very cold tonight. But there isn't a better option. We only managed 8.5 miles today, which is terrible if we want to finish this trail in time.

Angela

Today has been brutal and almost killed my love for hiking. I have horrible altitude sickness, which is debilitating and causes me to cruise at a slow and slumped over pace. The river we had to cross today was scary. I am not sure it's worth the risk. Though it surprises me to see so many people on this trail that the call the "hiking highway" because of its popularity. We saw a nice ranger today that was doing trail repair work, he didn't seem worried about us not having crampons and didn't ask to see our permits. We've now seen a ranger every day.

As we ascended towards Forester Pass we had to cross multiple snow fields, climbing ever higher into a barren and inhospitable world of rock and stone and ice lakes. There are slushy boot tracks everywhere but most lead to dead ends. Katie and I got separated a few times as we scrambled hopelessly over mounds of rock and snow looking for the best route into the pass. Eventually as the sun was setting and there were no other people in sight I suggested that we camp. I had to yell this suggestion to Katie across an expanse of snow and water.

"Camp!?" She yelled back at me in disbelief. I nodded and have taken on an attitude like a weight that drags her to a stop when I think we can't continue. She is always in high gear but strikes me as a little too anxious about miles. I hate the feeling of holding her back but I also worry about the practicality of going over an icy pass this late in the day when we don't know what the other side will be like. I know I'm slowing us down but I am also sick with the altitude. I don't know how people do the whole PCT.

Day 5

7/10/19

Angela

Toady was the hardest day yet, and one of the hardest days of my life. We went over Forester Pass with two new trail buddies: Lucky and Gravity. Lucky is a 66 year old man who is doing the whole PCT by himself. I am inspired by his tenacity. He has a very friendly personality and gave me his extra pair of sunglasses. Gravity is a young German man who is a PhD in physics and is aptly named also for doing handstands on every mountain pass. He is also doing the PCT.

The pass was terrifying because it was covered in snow and 13,200 feet. There were frozen switchbacks up a near-vertical, sheer cliff. We did not have crampons which made it incredibly dangerous and stupid but there was no other way out. We got to the top by 9am but not before some hairy moments where we could have fallen to our deaths with one misstep. Including a moment where it was so steep I had to untie my sleeping bag from the bottom of my pack and throw it across an icy section so I could slide across on my butt with enough traction. Katie caught it by hurling her body out in an adrenaline push that reminded me of a baseball player. We thought her new trail name should really be Catch, more appropriately than Shortcut, which I named her for always accidentally taking "shortcuts" into the brush. Another name for her could have been "off-piece" for the same habit of trekking off trail.

At the top of the pass we had caught up with Gravity and Lucky and waited for a while before we tackled another snow field. I couldn't handle looking down and just tried to focus on each boot track in front of me as I followed in a line behind Lucky and Gravity down the mountain. At certain points we were able to glissade down the steeper parts, which was very fun. At the bottom of the mountain we stopped and made lunch of pasta pesto. Though it took us three hours to get down the snowy mountain pass even though it was only three and half miles. The path after the snow led down into a beautiful forest next to a river where we went swimming and washed ourselves. It was bracing and delightful, we had a blast. Lucky swam with us too and told us he would go over Kearsarge Pass with us the next morning to the town of Independence. I've never fantasized about food as much in my life, but I can't wait to eat pizza and ice cream. Ironically, I have claimed to others and myself for years that I don't like ice cream but I'm questioning this orientation now as I think every hour about rocky road and cookie dough ice cream. We are planning to get a motel room when we get into town but for now we are camped on a switchback about .7 miles from our trailhead out. I built a fire to ward off the mosquitos off.

Katie

I have never been more scared in my life. We started out the day summiting the south side of Forester Pass. Most of it was frozen over with precarious switchbacks left by those who came before us. It was at times so steep I felt as if one misstep would send me falling all the way down the mountain. There were two men ahead of us who also admitted they were scared on the mountain. Once we summited we spent the majority of the day with these guys called Lucky and Gravity. Lucky stayed behind at river crossings to make sure we made it safely. He suggested we cross over a log by sitting down and sliding across instead of risking it walking over. Angela got cut up on her inner thighs this way from hugging the log too closely. Lucky is the oldest man I've met on trail so far and it's amazing he is doing this alone. He said his wife prefers to shower every day and doesn't like how dirty you get backpacking. Fair enough, we were really dirty today only after a few days in the wilderness.We showered in the river which was freezing cold.

The north side of Forester Pass was sunny, slushy and snow covered. We finally made our way through the valley into the forest where we had some shade. We set up our camp on the south of bullfrog lake trail which we sill take in the morning to Kearsarge Pass. We were told there is practically no snow now on the pass, I guess we'll see. Kearsarge Pass is on the way into Onion Valley where we will have to hitch into town. I hope this mountain pass is easier than the last. Today we did a little over 9 miles.

Day 6

7/11/19

Angela

Today we came over Kearsarge Pass into the town of Independence where we picked up our resupply box and then we got a ride to Lone Pine where we bought microspikes and had pizza and beer. We met a really nice trail angel named Mike who every summer gives PCT hikers rides back and forth between the pass and the town. He lives in Lone Pine and keeps a notebook of all the trail names of the hikers he picks up. I looked through his book for this year to see what "friends and enemies" he's picked up as he joked. He's been doing this for three years. It was actually Mike who gave us a ride into Lone Pine, which was 15 minutes south of Independence and ironically where we'd started the trail from 5 days previously. It was weird to be back where we'd started that was so close to where we'd just come out of, and slightly disheartening. I looked at my reflection in the bathroom mirror of the pizza place for the first time in days and was shocked to see how dirty and skinny I already looked.

We caught the bus back to Independence where we got a hiker hostel room. There we met Project Runway, Glow Worm and Just Dave, three other PCT hikers who were lodging with us. I bought an inordinate amount of snacks and Katie and I walked around in our bras and underwear while we did all of our laundry. I noticed the men didn't look at us or objectify us at all, which was refreshing. Katie and I got into another fight today about our hiking styles. We are notably out of sync and it's wearing on us both.

Katie

Today we woke up a little late so we weren't able to hike over the pass with Gravity or Lucky but bullfrog lake was stunning. We climbed up Kearsarge Pass which was very steep but mercifully free of snow. There were steep switchbacks on the west end. The east portion was much longer and winding. It seemed like nothing after Forester Pass. We finally made it down and got a hostel. We ate a ton of food and snacks and I downloaded Gut Hooks app since we had reception for the first time in five days. Gut Hooks is an app that allows you to see where you are on trail even when you don't have any service so we can find the trail if it's covered in snow.

Day 7

7/12/19

Katie

In the morning we gathered our things, sent a box back home of extra weighted items we determined we didn't need like extra soap, a lantern and a coffee filter. Mike was waiting for us outside the post office so we were able to a ride back to Kearsarge Pass pretty efficiently. Kearsarge seemed easier the second time around and then instead of taking Bull Frog Lake trail down into the valley we took a higher route over towards Glen Pass. I ran out of water since there haven't been as many streams on this higher route but we camped on the side of a mountain with snow so we cooked with snow and got some in my water reservoir. It melted in the tent overnight. I just checked and we are 90 miles from VVR our next resupply destination. I don't see how we'll make it there in time before running out of food but we are only 68 miles from Muir Trail Ranch where there might be a hiker box. Today we did nine miles.

Day 8

7/13/19

Angela

We continued over Glen Pass with our microspikes. I fell and bent my pole but it's still working for me. Katie and I have fought a lot and we almost turned back because of it. Tonight we are camping near Rae Lakes, which are very pretty albeit inundated with mosquitos. I have built a fire where we our camping to try to keep them out. My morale on the trail is pretty low. Glen Pass was quite difficult and getting down took us much longer than would be ideal. We only managed eight miles today and tensions are high between us. I lost both the cap to my water filter and to the camel pack itself. My thighs are also so chafed from skirting along a fallen tree that it's nearly unbearable to walk.

Katie

We summited Glen Pass today and I was very glad we had microspikes in order to attempt it. We then dropped into Rae Lakes which were gorgeous! I met a couple from New Lenox, IL which was cool because it is so close to where I grew up. We continued on the trail until we crossed Baxter Creek and set up camp just up from the river. Not a lot of people going northbound, but more going southbound. Tomorrow we head for Pinchot Pass which is about 10 miles away. We hear it is not a lot of snow, but a ton of mosquitoes which are almost just as dispiriting. We did 8 miles today.

Day 9

7/14/19

Katie

We were told Pinchot Pass wasn't difficult and there was "no snow". We spent the entire day climbing up this mountain and the entire top was covered in snow. We tackled our way up most of it until we could see the pass, but we decided to stop and camp because we were running out of daylight. We will finish the pass in the morning and make our way on towards Mather Pass. Angela and I are getting along most of the time. We only fight over my lack of taking breaks and where we should camp. I always want to get in more miles because I am afraid we will run out of food. We only got into two screaming fights so far where she called me a bully and a dictator and I said she was rude and moody. I think we are doing pretty good. We did 10 miles.

Angela

Pinchot Pass was an agonizing climb upwards all day past a waterfall and over countless snow fields. We did meet a polish couple we've stereotypically named Boris and Olga, even though those are Russian names and not Polish. We saw "Boris" give "Olga" a pep talk before crossing a river on the way up. He took her face in his hands and seemed to try to instill bravery in her before they flew up the hill. We suspect he's pushing her to do the trail when she might not want to. Though I am aware we could be projecting our own dynamic onto them. Katie pushes me hard and never seems to want to camp even when we are running out of daylight to get over a pass in time. We had to build a makeshift camp tonight by removing all the rocks from a dirt island and smoothing it out in order to place our tent there. It is extremely cold.

Day 10

7/15/19

Katie

We finished Pinchot Pass in the morning. There was still a lot of snow on both sides. We ate breakfast down by a frozen lake and continued on into a valley with a nice forest. we crossed a major river over a log which was better than hiking the 1.5 mile up stream as had been suggested by multiple people. The next river was just before our campsite. It was a little deep and fast moving but I crossed it fine. Angela was a bit apprehensive and walked upstream which wasn't any better. She stated that she didn't want to cross and asked if we could wait until the morning but I didn't like this idea because that would mean I would have to cross three times. She finally agreed to cross but was very scared. I waded out into the water and told her grab onto my pole which she wrapped around her wrist. I saw her start so I began to pull her towards me. She couldn't get her footing so she fell straight forward towards me and then I tried my best to keep the moving water from taking her so I picked her up. She was soaking wet and crying. I was also shaken up and upset. She finally stopped crying and realized her already bent pole was gone down the river.

Angela

I almost died by falling into a river. Katie was trying to help me but it actually was a bad situation. I wasn't ready and didn't have my footing. I wrapped my arm through her pole and she pulled me across. I fell in and how I got out is a bit of blur. I know that Katie pulled me out and fell herself. I laid on the bank for a long time crying before I realized my pole was gone. I had gotten attached to my bent pole. The last couple of days have been really awful. Tomorrow morning we have to go over Mather Pass, which I dread with only one pole. Katie offered me hers but I would feel indignant taking them and I am questioning her a bit as a pushy person. She did catch me when I fell though and I was hysterical. Now we are in a very beautiful and remote valley somewhere deep in the Sierras. I'm surrounded on all sides by snowy mountain peaks but it's hot and sunny. It's amazingly beautiful. I hope Katie and I can get along better. There is something difficult and even obtuse between us that makes it hard to work as a team.

Day 11

7/16/19

Katie

The original plan was to go all the way to Yosemite. Then we decided we would hit up VVR, then exit at Mammoth Lakes. This morning we woke up and had mashed potatoes and shared a coffee. Then we set out for Mather's Pass which was all steep scrambling and switchbacks that were half covered in snow. To top it off the last 50 steps were completely covered in snow in a staircase fashion which were so steep that if you fell you would slide all the way down the mountainside. I felt bad for Angela so I let her use my poles and I carried her single one. The last part was brutal so I gave her some encouraging, positive words to get up the last climb. She responded to me by telling me I was no help and that I "pulled her into the river". I called her a little bitch. She told me I was selfish. I took my poles back and set off down the mountain leaving her behind remarking "good luck without a tent" since I am carrying our tent for the trip. She said "good luck eating" as she is carrying the stove and fuel. I told her I would make it to Muir Ranch in two days so wouldn't need it anyway. It went on like this until I got far enough away from her I could no longer hear her and I told her I didn't want to hear her voice as she chased after me.

Angela

Today was eventful. We went over Mather Pass and I got into a fight with Katie about yesterday and the river incident (I guess I was still harboring my anger or fear from it and it came out in a burst on the side of the mountain). She left me on the summit and I tried to catch up with her on the way down but I fell and lost my sleeping bag and my only single pole broke. After this we debacle we decided the only thing to do was to leave the JMT early and I told Katie she should hike with someone more on her calibre. We will get out tomorrow via Bishop Pass and from there go into Mammoth and Yosemite by bus. I hope the two of us can get along better; I really do. My stove has also stopped working. I feel like I'm falling apart. We had to eat cold soup with unfiltered water. Katie and I are sharing a sleeping bag which as it turns out is actually warmer than being in our own bags. We are just below the golden staircase which was breathtakingly beautiful. I'm feeling bittersweet about leaving the trail. On the one hand I'm thrilled and on the other I feel like I've failed and it's disappointing not to finish. But I miss civilization. Ironically Katie and I have done the hardest part and all the major passes of the trail.

Day 12

7/17/19

Katie

Today was awful. We woke up in the early morning and hiked up to the Bishop Trail Pass. Angela's stove has now officially stopped working so we've had some dried ramen packets and a single salmon packet between us. We ended up hiking on switchbacks straight up for three miles until we came to a river that Angela "didn't feel comfortable" crossing so we tried to hike upstream to avoid crossing altogether as the map showed that you crossed the river twice. We scrambled for two hours through trees, logs, and rocks during the hottest part of the day. I fell several times and cut up my legs and tent. Finally after going up for a long time I told her we had no option but to turn back and to cross the river. It turned out the river crossing was no problem and I was upset that we didn't try that to begin with. The next couple of miles were all in the sun and uphill. Angela was feeling sick and so she was going slowly. I had to wait for her in shady spots on the way up. Eventually Angela threw up and then around 4pm she said she was too ill to keep going. I knew we were running out of daylight so we set up camp. I was not happy. We got into several fights. I can't wait to get to town in the morning since now we have no food.

Angela

Today was horrible. We were up at 5:30 and booked it to Bishop mountain to try to get out of here today but we couldn't get out in time and Katie and I got into a huge fight because of it. I got sick and threw up our last food trying to make it up the mountain after Katie. I can't keep up with her and she doesn't understand that. We also got lost in some rough brush and I was worried we would step on a snake but I wanted to avoid another risky river crossing. It was very hot and steep all day. I don't think I drank enough water, which might be why I'm sick but it could also be the altitude. At this point I'm not sure if Katie and I will still be friends when we finish or if we'll . never speak again.

POSTSCRIPT:

Katie and I are still friends. But we recognize that our experience on the trail is something only the two of us will ever fully appreciate or understand. The John Muir Trail changes every year. Annually many hundreds of people from all over the world attempt to thruhike it. The most important thing is to "hike your own hike" and respect the nature around you. Parts of the trail are dangerous but also sublime. It was an experience that will stick with me forever just to do 12 days on it.